Chateau Climens 2009 En Primeur Sauternes
Ch Climens – 1st Growth Barsac
Bill Blatch: This is a tough call to make, as the wine is still in 14 of the original 17 lots and a prototype blend has not yet been attempted. So we just have to taste all the lots and then do the assemblage in our heads. The main body of the blend will be composed of the highly botrytised pickings of 2nd to 6th October. These lots taste rich yet very fine, almost delicate and extremely florally expressive. They will be blended with the smaller and also finer and lighter first pickings and some but not all of the heavier final ones. My guess is that this is classic Climens: not over-sweet or overstated in any way, all purety and finesse, albeit on a background of rich intensity, which will be slightly less sweet in appearance than ’07.
Wine Advocate 96-98points: Picked in just two tries, 90% picked in one trie, tasting through 13 separate lots, the core components of a great Climens appear to be in place. Paying particular attention to the lots that constitute a large percentage of the blend (usually around 15%) the common themes are ones of great purity, persistency and precision. The aromatics display pure honey, minerals, occasionally a faint scent of spearmint and white peach, most with spellbinding precision. On the palate, Berenice Lurton has some stupendous lots at her disposal, with ample botrytis, ethereal definition, one or two more powerful, quite spicy lots and others that are shorter and will undoubtedly lend the blend an acidic cut. It will be a joy to taste this after bottling.
Decanter: Impossible to give a mark because the final blend is not made, but the tasting of the different lots in barrel indicate that Climens will probably surpass all its great successes of the past and reach the highest imagineable level, with a perfect 2009 balance between richness and elegance.
Jancis Robinson – 18.5 points: As usual, there was no final blend of Climens to taste, but a succession of barrel samples representing each picking, rather fewer than usual in 2009 since the vintage was so successful. The first lot, picked on 28 Sep, was incredibly rich and pure and full-bodied. And then the 3 Oct lot was, amazingly, even richer and heavier. Apparently 90% of the crop was picked between 2 and 9 Oct in unusually warm conditions. Two lots picked on 5 Oct showed that the afternoon lot was nervier than the morning lot. Unlike in 2005, for example, the last lots, such as the one picked on 8 Oct, were less rather than more concentrated, and delightfully racy. Great blend of richness, raciness and life. This should be very special indeed and I may be under-scoring it. Drink 2020-2045.
Click on the following link for the full list of 2009 En Primeur Sauternes