2010 Chateau de Malle

Chateau de Malle – 2nd Growth Sauternes

RELEASED 16th May 2010 – £232/case bottles or £248/case half bottles

Bill Blatch: At first, back in March, this had a great creamy tone that reminded me of the estate’s amazing 1990. Since then, the wine has acquired great tone, tensed up by a tight, strict, almost green kind of fruit and oaky structure (after all, the new winemaker here is ex Cloudy Bay!) that obliterated the creaminess. Possibly it will end up a mixture of the two, but it feels like all this tightness and finesse will prevail, making this a candidate to become a landmark de Malle.
Neal Martin: 92-94/100 – The bouquet on the 2010 de Malle demands some coaxing from the glass, but it is worth waiting for, as there is wonderful minerality waiting to surface. The palate is very well-balanced, with good acidity and botrytis. This is a clean, crisp, precise Sauternes that revivifies the palate, ready for the next sip. De Malle has produced one of its finest vintages to date. Bravo!
Decanter: 16.5/20 – Pale, well protected against oxidation by Sulphur Dioxide, seems more fluid because of that, but well balanced and lovely aftertaste. Will show better in six months time. Drink 2018-2030.
Jancis Robinson: 16/20 – Drink 2020-2030.  Certainly feels heavy in the glass.  Not much nose; a tiny bit fishy in fact.  Big and a bit barley sugary.  Not much subtlety.  Quite astringent on the finish.  Residual Sugar 125 g/l, Total Acidity 3.9 g/l, Alcohol 13.5%.
Wine Enthusiast: 92-94/100 – Great acidity here, the wine has freshness as well as dried apricot and peach flavors, very honeyed. Excellent acidity to finish.
Panos Kakaviatos: 90-92/100 – Iodine nose, mineral. Sweet palate but nicely balanced with acidity, of which there is .5 grams per liter more than in 2009. Fine finish.
Tim Atkin: 90/100
Jeremy Williams: 88-91/100 – Pale straw gold; some wax, quite fresh, some oak; sauvignon notes – herbs and grass; very floral and pretty; nice mid-weight style and elegant and racy palate.
Rene Gabriel: 19/20
Matthew Jukes: 16/20
Jane Anson: 94/100 – The nose is pretty, charming, floral (they have 3% muscadelle),  with concentrated citrus. Even more so on the palate, a real sweet and sour thing going on here where the sugar is quite present and heavy, but the acidity keeping step. Twist of lime, good length, silky texture, not a lot to complain about here. Very impressed. Drink 2018-2034
Jean-Marc Quarin: 15/20
Chris Kissack: 15.5-16.5/20 – Residual sugar 125 g/l. Very relaxed and sweet fruit here, with a soft golden feel. The palate is broad and sweet, gently composed, with less energy than some other wines. Quite a nice grip to it, with a full and substantial style to it, but not the vibrancy that marks the vintage, There is acidity here, but the feel is rather more solid than I expected. Having said that on a second look, later on, it did come across as rather more vivacious and alive. Good, and perhaps this will offer some value.

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